Monthly Archives: November 2010

Leonard Cohen at Hanging Rock

Well, along with about 12000 others we descended on Hanging Rock on the 21st to hear Leonard Cohen and friends.
It was annoying getting there, sublime once we arrived and frustrating trying to get away.
On advice we decided to park at Woodend and catch one of the shuttle buses to the concert as we figured driving into Hanging Rock and parking would be a nightmare. We were right on the latter seeing the traffic jam as the bus (eventually) rattled in on its own right of way but, like the organisers, we underestimated the number of shuttle buses that would run. So having started to queue at 2:30 we didn’t get on a bus until after four then arrived at the venue at about 4:30. Good run, slow organisers.

The stageThe crowd
Unfortunately this meant we missed Dan Sultan’s 30 minute set. While slightly annoyed, Cath was devastated to miss his mellow crooning and maybe visual appeal? Glad we booked seats, even if they only turned out to be plastic chairs. Meant we had a definite place, without the need to fight for rug space and a view through heads like concerts at the Music Bowl but less civilised.

Having settled in and found the bar and loos we were able to relax to the sounds of Clare Bowditch for another short warm up set, before getting fully immersed into local whites and yummy cheese. Then it was some classic Paul Kelly with Vika and Linda Bull provided some very smooth, soulful support and the occasional lead. Vikka sing “so much water..” was just amazingly moving.

From there we moved into the man himself for two sets lasting what seemed like a lifetime but was about two and a half hours.
Much seemed familiar and it was hard to know what was his and what he acquired but it was all brilliantly delivered in typical Leonard Cohen deep tones, gravelly or smooth as suited. Some people around us suggested it was the same repertoire as for his last few concerts but they were still back for a repeat so they must have felt it was worth it. (I did later download his London live concert and yes it is pretty much the same, but who cares it was still brilliant)

Dancing at the edge of love, everybody knows, Suzanne and more. The crowded ooh’ed and aah’ed at all the right times. The Web sisters had divine voices, the Spanish guitarist was magic as were all his other support musicians. We all crooned along with Alleluia and croaked out “then we take Berlin”. Gee the local white was good. Cohen in fine voiceStage view

Then there was the shuttle bus home. Nightmare queue! No control, no order, no buses for long periods and no clear information … “We load one at a time, or maybe not”, “Wait here, or there”, one poor girl trying to make sense while the drivers did what they felt was right, leaving without full loads stopping all over the place. What were those 6 security guys doing? Not much just watching from a distance. Not sure I would trust Dyson buses and who every else was running transport to do it again. Yet once again once on board after over an hours wait, it was a quick trip back to Woodend past snaking lines of almost stationary cars, so it was still the best option, just very frustrating. A little information can go a long way.

Day 5 Sarah Island and the Gordon River

Back down Macquarie Harbour we went towards our next stop, Sarah Island and a visit into the past. Governor's quartersSarah Island was meant to be the harshest penal colony in Tasmania prior to the setting up of Port Arthur prison. It was also the starting point for the story of the “ship that never was”, the last escape from this inescapable prison. Here we once again met the cast from the Round Earth Company who once more entertained us with stories and conundrums from this fascinating past. On a tight schedule we moved from artifact to ruins as they explained the history of the settlement and posed their questions. At the end it seemed Sarah Island may have not have ended up as harsh a settlement as was planned thanks to a little murder, blackmail and creative greed. With the sound of the ship’s siren we all trooped back on-board.Old Well Hope we got everyone back, but I don’t remember seeing those Round Earth blokes again?
From Sarah Island we headed further down the harbour and into the start of the Gordon River, grazing on our smorgasbord lunch as we went. A slow cruise up the Gordon took us to the wilderness landing were we had a 40 minute board walk taste of the wilderness rain forest and the mighty Huon Pine – or at least a smallish version of one.
After that it was back on board and homeward bound as we all tried to stay awake. This was helped by an interesting video on the old timber getters, but not by a nice glass of dry white.
Back in town Cath and I felt the need to stretch our legs so we dragged the girls along for a shortish walk up a local creek to a very pleasant waterfall on the vague suggestion we might see a platypus – we didn’t – before consolation ice-creams and back to our cabin for the end of the Grand Final some dinner and an early night. Nice of the Saints and Collingwood to have a draw so we could see the game in Melbourne.Lichen on the Gordon

Day 5 Hells Gate

With some excitement we head off to town, very early, for our Gordon River cruise in a light drizzle.wilderness-cruise
The first stage is a rather tame cruise up Macquarie Harbor to Hells Gate the opening into the bay, said to be only navigable on certain tides and winds in the early days of the colony. On this wet and windy day you can believe it but that doesn’t stop myself and Kiara from adventuring on deck for a better view of all around. As we approach the small gap between shore and island we can see the heavy surf pounding in from outside. Then we slip past the lighthouse on the guardian island. Looking back we see the brown wake of the boat as we squeeze through the tannin laden waters of the channel. We are now in the last smooth patch before passing the sand bars into the storm tossed water of the Southern Ocean. But even in our large modern boat with a relatively minor wind speed it is too chancy and after a few moments the captain decided and we turn around with much pitching and rolling. Cath tells Kiara a I latter that Siobhan spent the time we were on deck catching fruit and glasses as they rolled of the bar’s counter.hells-gate-1hells-gate-2hells-gate-3
Having braved Hells Gate we now head back down the harbor to Sarah Island, were we would meet our friends from the Round Earth company again as they use their own inimitable style to tell the story of this prison colony from history and legend.